Mildreds restaurant in Soho is a decades-long fixture of veggie dining. Over recent years, its owners have branched out and opened sister restaurants in Camden, Kings Cross and, most recently, Dalston. Each restaurant has a similar menu and aesthetic, inspired by the original.
Housed in a boxy modern space with windows on three sides, the interior of Mildreds Kings Cross is a mix of modern retro and industrial chic. Canteen benches that comfortably seat 18 run down the middle, with smaller tables along the sides. It’s stylish and colourful with its posters, and its retro pink, plastic lampshades. Given the wooden surfaces and lively crowd, you might expect more noise, but the acoustics are good and it’s easy to have a conversation.
The menu offers a variety of cuisines and includes both healthy, creative dishes and more traditional comfort food. Nearly all the dishes are vegan or can be made vegan on request.
There’s a range of starters and small plates that are perfect for sharing, including watermelon, mint and tomato salad; hoummus with rose harissa and chargrilled flatbread; and roasted miso aubergine with ginger and spring onions. Of the mains you might enjoy a smoked tofu burger with cheese, a Tokyo bowl, a mushroom and ale pie or a Sri Lankan sweet potato curry, to name a few. If you have room for pudding, there’s plenty to tempt you, including a chocolate and hazelnut brownie, and a peach, strawberry and apple polenta crumble.
Bookings are only accepted for parties of 10–14, but there’s room to stand at the bar while you wait for a table. There’s a good selection of organic wines and beer, and an inventive cocktail menu. At busy times, the queue tends to weave around the tables and you can expect to wait 20 minutes or more, but it’s a testament to the quality of the food and the restaurant’s popularity. A high turnover of tables means staff are attentive and food is served quickly.
It’s hard not to compare Mildreds Kings Cross to its Soho sibling, but with the same reliable choices and welcoming attitude that has kept the original running for over 25 years, it’s doing well to live up to the well-deserved reputation.