Outside, the cafe’s colourful stripes call for attention, but inside the atmosphere is relaxed and unpretentious. You’ll find the menu, which changes daily, on a chalkboard behind the counter where you place your order.

There are three or four hearty mains, vegan versions of British ‘favourites’ that often include a tofu burger with chips; a curry; and a hearty, traditional meal such as shepherd’s pie with lentils, ‘chicken’ pot pie or fishless and chips.

There are also tasty pizzas, layered with vegan cheese and topped with soya, that you can buy whole or by the slice. The salad is a fancy, expertly dressed mix of vegetables, slaw and grains. It comes in two sizes and is served with bread (available gluten-free). There are also stacks of vegan sausage rolls and samosas to tempt you at the counter, if you’re after a snack, and a range of decadent desserts (cakes, brownies, meringue, ice cream) if you’re in the mood for something sweet.

Of a weekend, the cafe services brunch. Vegan croissants, pain au chocolat, and a big cooked breakfast of vegan sausage, tofu scramble, mushrooms, tomatoes, homemade beans and toast.

Drinks include delicious, flavoured soya milkshakes and a good selection of hot and soft drinks. Alcohol isn’t served, but you can bring your own for a small corkage fee.

As well as the food from the menu, you can also buy lots of vegan snacks and chocolates, tofu, tempeh, vegan cheese and other fresh food to take home.

Following rapid change in Hackney and an explosion of new bars and restaurants nearby, Black Cat’s popularity is growing. There may be fewer punks and more prams at the tables, but it’s a sign of the cafe’s success that it’s equally loved by both vegans and others alike. With such a range of appetising options, it’s no surprise.

The cafe isn’t run by a single person but a collective of member cooks who also maintain the space. While some of the cooks do have recurring shifts, the arrangement means no two days are the same and what’s on offer is truly international.

There’s always a starter (£3), a main (£8) and a dessert (£3). Each usually has two options to choose between, and will likely include a vegan and gluten-free dish. At least one night a week, the menu is entirely vegan. The cafe is unlicensed, but you’re encouraged to bring your own alcohol. There’s no corkage fee, but there is a 50p charge for a glass.

The bohemian spirit of the cafe is squarely linked to the history of Bonnington Square, in which it sits. In the 1980s, the square was left vacant. Houses were scheduled for demolition, but squatters moved in, occupied the buildings and, over time, came to own them. The squatters formed a housing collective and established a community garden. They set up Bonnington Centre and, inside, a vegetarian cafe providing a good, cheap meal for the community.

Today, the centre offers yoga and pilates classes, provides counselling and hosts film nights and community events. And, after more than 30 years, Bonnington Café remains one of south London’s unique treasures. It’s popular and busy, so book a table in advance by contacting the chef through the cafe’s website.

Don’t forget to bring cash — cards aren’t accepted.